You slowly slip along while keeping a close watch on your floats. Suddenly, one disappears before your eyes. For a split second you’re stunned, and perhaps confused because it happened so fast that you think your eyes are playing tricks with your mind.

Then suddenly, your awoke back to reality by the screams of a singing drag from your reel.

That scenario has played itself out countless times on my boat and I have to confess, its’ still the most exciting way to fish for stripers and Hybrid.

Most all of us began our fishing careers using some kind of a float that enabled us to detect when a fish had grabbed the bait. When the float disappeared you’d set the hook like a big time "Bass Pro". This was followed by a untamed urged to giggle and laugh as you battled the fish.

That same kind of excitement still burns in the souls of "big kids" like me when a huge striper or hybrid has pounded the bait suspended below.

There are several ways to rig floats for striper and hybrids, but undoubtedly, my favorite is a slip float. These devices allow you to fish at whatever depth you desire and increase your chances of catching spooky fish. By allowing the bait to drift out and away, shy fish won’t be disturbed by the ominous shadow of your boat above.

Perhaps the easiest setup I know to rig a slip float is to use a Carolina rig and a rubber band. The Carolina rig uses a two way barrel swivel with a leader line on one end and your main line attached to the other. The pound test of your leader can be different from your main line, but should be strong enough to handle the conditions of the particular body of water your on. If trees and other obstructions are a consideration, then a heavier leader may be needed. Size of expected fish can also play a role into the pound test of your leader. Old Hickory may dictate a 30# or heavier leader, while on Percy Priest you may only need a 12# leader.

Regardless of my leader strength I normally use a leader of at least three feet in length. Shorter leaders may spook fish and longer leader may make it difficult to land fish.

Your choice of hooks should be in relation to the size of bait your using. In the winter, small shiners may be used as bait. Therefore, a small hook would be more suited. During the summer, large shad and bluegills might be your choice and these will require a larger hook. By far, one of the most popular hooks used by club members is the Eagle Claw

L-42 style hook. This hook is sharp and has a wide enough gap to get a good hook set.

In front of your two-way swivel is a small weight. Some members prefer a spilt shot pinched on the line, but my choice would be a light egg sinker. The egg sinker is less likely to damage your line. The size of your weight should be just enough that the float will stay up with the bait attached.

As far as what type of float to use and in what size, use the following as a guide.

There are many styles of floats. The types that have proven themselves to me are styles that present a slender profile similar to a cigar. These have good flotation, but will pull through the water with little resistance. The fish will hold onto the bait longer with the light resistance. This allows you greater time to set the hook.

Depending on the style of your float, it may have a small or large hole for your line to pass through. If the hole is large, you will have to use a glass bead above the float for the stop to rest against.

To make a stop from a rubber band, cut the rubber band so that you have a single strand. Once you have determined the depth you wish to set your float, tie a single box type knot around your main line at the depth you have chosen. Cut the tag ends off and leave just the knot on your line. This is the stop that will keep your float at the proper depth.

A good knot is normally small enough that you can reel it into your reel without interference.

The whole idea of using slip floats is to get the bait away from the boat. When anchoring. I’ll let the wind drag the float away from the some 50 feet or more. If your in a current situation, the water flow will take the float away from the boat.

When trolling with an electric motor, set your lines back behind the boat some 75 feet or more. I prefer to stagger them so that they are at different distances behind the boat. This will help to keep them from getting tangled together when maneuvering around.

Slip floats work very well behind side planers too. The sideliner will help you increase the number of floats you can pull behind without tangling. They also help you cover a wider path of water.

Two tips that have helped me put fish in the boat is to vary your speed and pull your floats in a zigzag pattern.

Changing your speed will raise and lower your bait in the water column. The zigzag pattern helps you to cover more water efficiently.

Most floats have a different color pattern between the top and bottom. Floats that are un-weighted can be alternated so that the opposite colors appear above the surface. This helps you to identify which float has gone under when a strike happens. When fish are really hitting, you’ll appreciate that.

Slip floats work very well under pressure conditions when lake traffic is a factor. They help you entice those spooky and shy fish into hitting. The sometimes work when all else fails.

Give them a try. I think you’ll enjoy the suspense of suspended fishing as much as I have.

Good Luck! Good Fishing! Most of all "Be Safe!" Rene